Angkor Wat

[pdogg]

Can any one give me the lowdown on Angkor Wat?

I'm not a sightseeing type of guy however I'm sure Angkor is spectacular and worth seeing. I'll be in Siem Riep for 5 nights so 4 fill days exluding travel days.

My understanding is that three consecutive days at Angkor cost $40 and the daily rate is $20. I probably would go 2 days but I may as well get the three day pass.

As it is all spread out, exactly what should I see? Is ther ea particular time of day to go? Or avoid? Should I just get a tuk tuk or do some sort oftour?

[KenW]

Any or all of the above, it's totally up to you.

I am into that sort of stuff, but I saw all I wanted to in 2 days.

Well, 1.5 days really, for the afternoons were so hot I had had enough by lunchtime on the second afternoon.

I had a guide who merely told us where we should see, then took us there in his car, and left us to do the walking. We met up with him when time to lunch or return to hotel.

It is very spread out.

You should definitely see the main temple complex of course. I spent most of the first day there, including the much talked about sunset watch.

The smaller temples are ones you can pick and choose on. Some are within walking distance of each other so you you can take in 2 or 3 of them in a couple of hours.

I forget names now. But a good guide can give you the info you need.

[farangbah]

Angkor Wat is well beyond worth seeing, my good man. It is one of the most significant places on Earth. I'm a middle-of-the-road sightseeing guy myself, but this place is neck-and-neck with Machu Picchu in my life.

I got the 3 day pass too, but like KenW I was done after about two days. Late afternoon is best for photography, with that unbelievable golden-red sun. But morning is pretty magical too -- you can be all alone in some of these ancient wonders, except for the millions of mind-blowing "bell cicadas" that are just surreal.

I'm not much of a guide person -- in my experience they're usually shit with an agenda, and I found that all I needed was right in the easily available written materials. I went for a book and a bike! I can't recommend the bike option enough. You're a swimmer, so I know the exercise would be enjoyable for you. But it's the freedom (!) that it provides that's so lovely and refreshing. Angkor is literally a city, so it's so much fun to just go where the day takes you, cruise around... "Hey, that looks interesting..." and stop and go whenever and wherever you please. The entire area is completely flat, so you can clock lots o' klicks and not have a worry.

And it's a damn good thing you finally took my oh so sage advice and brought along a camera on your adventures -- you're gonna need it.

The temple of the big stone faces (not the official name :) ) was a particular fave of mine...

Enjoy! But beware the touts outside all the temple sites... Best to use blinders, IMHO...

Cheers,

farangbah, intrepid traveler

[pentire]

Back in 2006 I did two days touring around the various temples and out posts with my exclusive Tuk Tuk & driver which is an essential requirement IMO. These guys really do know their stuff along with the best routes and times.....put yourself in their hands, let him be your guide.

Day one lasted about ten hours and we covered much ground, while on the second day I was there at dawn to see the sun rise before returning to my hotel pool area until heading back to Angkor at sunset which I sampled in the cable controlled hot air balloon.....that was my highlight.

[farangbah]

Back in 2006 I did two days touring around the various temples and out posts with my exclusive Tuk Tuk & driver which is an essential requirement IMO. These guys really do know their stuff along with the best routes and times.....put yourself in their hands, let him be your guide.

Day one lasted about ten hours and we covered much ground, while on the second day I was there at dawn to see the sun rise before returning to my hotel pool area until heading back to Angkor at sunset which I sampled in the cable controlled hot air balloon.....that was my highlight.

Pentire, our beloved and (semi-?) retired mayor, is one of the best drinking companions a man could ask for. Alas, I fear my friend and I would not make the best of travel companions, however.

At the time of the experience I spoke of above, back in early ought-five, I remember thinking how the locals -- as is often the case in situations like these, through lack of choice or foresight -- were already doing everything they could to destroy the one thing they had going for them, and that the place was already overrun with touts and vendors and people outside the entrances incessantly yelling, "Mista mista you buy something!" and yes, tuk-tuks. IMO, tuk-tuks are just about the scourge of the roads and the transportation world in general and we'd all be better off without them entire. They were all zipping around, making noise and adding to the general chaos and pollution of what is supposed to be a holy, tranquil place. Can't imagine what it must be like there now, several years later...

And maybe Pentire got lucky, or maybe, being a former guide myself, I'm just a snob in this dept., but in most third-world countries -- and this place in particular -- just about any schmuck walking around calls himself a "guide". And personally, I don't like being led around by the nose, or constrained to someone else's agenda.

The hot-air balloon bit, well that's your prerogative, but, again *IMHO*, they rank just below jet-skis at the beach in terms of tourist traps that don't belong. You know, some French company tried for years -- and almost succeeded -- in building a big red gondola express right up to the front door of Machu Picchu. These kinds of things are very divisive. Some people see them as a modern convenience or a unique and fun experience to tell the folks back home, while others feel they destroy the very essence of the place, and scratch their heads and wonder what the world is coming to. I seem to be in the latter camp.

I'm sorry, but tuk-tuks and hot-air balloons are not my idea of an ancient spiritual experience in one of the most historically important places on earth.

No offense, PT old chum!

[pdogg]

I don't like being led around by the nose, or constrained to someone else's agenda.

I hate being constrained to someone else's agenda too. But I think that's why Pen hired an all day tuk tuk as then he could do as he pleased, going wherever he wanted in his own private limo of sorts.

[mildcigar2001]

Can't reccomend Angkor Wat highly enough. You've already spent $$$ to get to SEA. Take a day or two and see the temples. Its like something out of a Indiana Jones movie (only it real). Need a guide though. Get off the correct tract and you get blown up by land mines (no kidding). During the Vietnam war the surrounding area was a place for the Khmer rouge.

[Trenton42]

First and most important piece of advice is that you can’t drink too much water. Even if you think you’re used to SEA, exploring Angkor Wat is nothing short of brutal.

Please note that although the entire temple complex is referred to as Angkor Wat, that is also the name of the main temple there.

It’s a good idea to get a map to have a lay of the land. If one goes to the market next to the Tha Phrom Hotel, there’s a book stall there where one can find inexpensive copies of some pretty good books on the temple complex. Also have a look here: http://www.theangkorguide.com

While walking around, you’ll have many opportunities to buy things (from trinkets to t-shirts), but if you wait a while, you’ll get a better idea of prices. And, of course, you won’t have to carry it with you.

Arrange your ride a day in advance so you can catch the sunrise at Angkor Wat. Your hotel should be able to help you. Options include anything from motocy to mini-van. If you can afford it, go for a car with AC; the ride between temples will be much more bearable… If your hotel offers breakfast, they may pack a boxed breakfast for you.

Walk around a bit to find some good places to take photos of the sun rising behind the temple. Also pay attention to a couple reflecting pools inside the temple grounds that may offer some great shots (depending on how many flowers are floating in them…).

After the sun has risen, you may notice that everyone splits. I have no idea where everyone goes, but *my* suggestion is to go deep inside Angkor Wat and have a look around. One should be able to walk around the high walls, and also climb to the top of the main spire in the center.

About 90 minutes is good for one’s first visit to Angkor Wat.

Next stop: Tha Phrom.

I like to visit Tha Phrom at least twice; once in the morning, and again in the late afternoon. If one likes to take a lot of photo, it’s great to go both times because the light is quite different. Again, 90 minutes is enough to stick one’s toe in as you can always go back.

After Tha Phrom, go to The Terrace of the Leper King. Notice you can walk inside, and do so! From there, you can visit the Elephant Terrace, and keep walking exploring other temples until you make your way to Bayon.

You’ll prolly be pooped after climbing all over Bayon, and it’ll be mid-day, so it’s a good idea to go back into town, grab a bite and have a nap.

Then get up, and watch the sunset. You’re driver will know where to take you. If you’re in shape, walk up the mountain. Or if you’re old like me, get there early and hire an elephant to take you to the top.

After the sun sets, get the fuck off the mountain. Nothing good is going to happen to anyone carrying an expensive camera who decides to be the last one off the mountain!

The hot air balloon offers an interesting view of Angkor Wat, but unless one has the right equipment, it won’t show in the photos.

On day 2, think of Bantay Saray and Bantay Samre in the morning, and Tha Phrom in the afternoon.

There’s another couple temples worth visiting on your third day, but I can’t recall the names and would have to do a little research (one has bas reliefs underwater in a stream, and the other is an outlaying temple). You can also revisit your favorite places as one gets a different perspective when it’s not your first time.

[Trenton42]

I hate being constrained to someone else's agenda too. But I think that's why Pen hired an all day tuk tuk as then he could do as he pleased, going wherever he wanted in his own private limo of sorts.

The Cambodian Angkor Wat temple guides are NOTHING like the average Thai tourguide.

[Trenton42]

Here's a another tip about Tha Phrom: The temple is set up with an entrance and exit to the grounds. No one watches these, so it is indeed possible to enter through the exit, which is a very good idea to see things from a different perspective, and to also go against the flow if any bus tours should be in the area.

[farangbah]

I think that's why Pen hired an all day tuk tuk as then he could do as he pleased, going wherever he wanted in his own private limo of sorts.

Oh, is that why? Thank you for stepping in to clarify Pentire's actions to me. And yeah, that's exactly what Angkor needs -- private limos! They should get some Hummers in there, too. Or better yet, those Hummer limos!

Being an intelligent human being, I thought Pentire was perfectly capable of explaining or defending himself. And I had been looking forward to a lively retort, until now. I believe your post is in direct contrast to your last email to me. And I'm on the wrong end of it. In any event, you apparently missed my point...

While tuk-tuks may provide mobility (...and noise and pollution and traffic and disruption of what's left of the harmony of the place...), they don't drive themselves. It's the "guide" that's constraining, and taking you where he pleases.

But whatever floats your boat, consumer... Rent the tuk-tuk, hire the driver and the guide, ride the elephant, give hand-outs to all the kids and beggars, and believe all the folklore about getting blown-up if you don't have a guide with you at all times! Send out postcards from your hot-air balloon. Import private limos. Future generations will feel indebted to us for what we -- or you -- have done with the place. Or, you can probably just get the t-shirt in Bangkok.

And I'll try to remember to not to waste so much time on a Sunday contributing to a forum and trying to express myself about something I feel so passionately about, only to spend too much time dwelling on that it only gets offhandedly dismissed by the boss himself, and wondering his motives...

[pdogg]

Hummer........good idea bro! :D

I get what you're saying, I think, that is a centuries old spiritual place doesn't need noise, pollution, and all kinds of modern stuff which can detract from the experience.

Anymore than an idylic beach needs jetskis! 8)

Trying to figure out how to do Angkor as a fist timer, defo want freedom for sure.

[williethepimp]

the best part of angkor wat for me was the bayonne temple,The angkor wat itself was amazing also,after those 2 ,i was kinda templed out,everything I saw after was an anti-climax.Its a gruelling hike is angkor wat.

As for tuk tuks-how else are you supposed to get around between temples?.You cannot hire a motorcycle in siam reap-so that leaves push bikes-walking -or tuk tuks.Too far to walk,and exhausting to cycle around all day,so the only option for me was a tuk-tuk.The driver spoke fluent english ,and worked out a route for us to see as much as possible-I think we paid him $15 a day.

As for the hawkers,mostly young girls-I discovered (by accident) that if I went to give them a friendly familiar hug they shied away from me immediately....that solved the hawker problem as everytime I saw them approach,I'd open my arms wide and say"come here darling"...they soon skedaddled.